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Community Carbine Strategy
Overview Carbines are versatile, highly mobile weapons which should be used at close or medium ranges to have maximum effectiveness. Most, if not all, have semi-auto firing modes, thus making certain carbines good as DMRs for longer ranges. Many also have decently high rates of fire when firing fully automatic, making for good room-clearing firearms. General Tactics * A carbine should not be used at long ranges. They can be used to lay down suppressive fire to keep the enemy's head down, but this should only be used in emergency situations where you are trapped. ** Many carbines have terrible ranged damage, but decent bullet velocity. Take advantage of this to finish off weakened targets, harass snipers, and generally just be a nuisance to anyone outside of your range. Be mindful of how much ammo you have left, however. * Take advantage of many carbines' high base damage. While their ranged performance tends to be poor, they also tend to outperform their equivalent assault rifles within close quarters. * Remember that carbines are a highly mobile weapon archetype. Stay moving, keep out of sight, and close the distance to ensure you get the upper hand. Specific Weapons M4A1 * The M4A1 works best in close-medium range engagements. Long-range engagements should be avoided as it's a 6SK, but it is possible with Semi mode and specific attachments. * The M4A1 is essentially the Swiss army knife of the carbines. Being that it's the first weapon that players will more than likely ever use, the M4A1's attachment selection will make it extremely easy to spec out the rifle in such a way that it will perform well. * Be mindful of spraying at range. The M4A1 exhausts ammo quickly, and despite its stability, the M4A1 will run out of puff very quickly. G36C * In the Carbine category, the G36C is probably the most versatile weapon, being able to fit nearly all playstyles. It can be brought into almost every map and be expected to perform well. It acts more like an Assault Rifle than a Carbine, having the muzzle velocity, rate of fire, and minimum damage to back it up. * The G36C, like its parent G36, is also equipped for long range engagements. While it lacks the 4x magnification scope, it's better than most carbines being a 5SK, and has the unique property of being able to shift seamlessly from tap fire to shooting up close, which is where the G36C really puts its money. A Canted Delta Sight comes in handy here. * The G36C is highly unusual in that it doesn't have a huge disadvantage against any one weapon - it works in nearly all range brackets. M4 (WIP) * The M4 lacks a full-auto, so make sure you've gotten accustomed to using burst mode. Semi mode is pretty much unnecessary. It is capable of a 1-burst kill, which defines its role in close-quarters combat. Line up one good burst, and you're killing someone. * The best tactic for the M4 is to stay outside of a direct confrontation. Lining up a burst can take a bit of practice, but it doesn't guarantee a kill. If you should miss a burst, then the TTK goes up dramatically, and you might be lying in your own blood. * The M4 works with most maps, especially straightforward, simple maps like Warehouse. L22 (WIP) * The PDW of the group; the L22 is accustomed to CQC. It feeds on tight spaces and narrow hallways. Hipfire is going to be your best bet with this gun. * Usually the general game plan is to flank behind enemy lines and take them out one by one. A good attachment for this is the PBS-1 Suppressor. SCAR PDW (WIP) * The SCAR PDW works best in medium range combat, and performs slightly less admirably in CQC - though it still gets the job done. The recoil is the main challenge of the SCAR PDW - but that's where attachments come in. Grips, in particular. * Long range? Don't even try it. The SCAR PDW is awful at tap firing, and it's a 6SK anyways. It's better to get closer to the enemy before unloading half a clip or so. * It should be used primarily as an assault weapon, but not necessarily at the front lines. It works best with a partner - one to go out and confront the enemy, the other (you) to fall back a little and deal with anyone else. AKU-12 (WIP) * The AKU-12, like the others carbines, operates in close-medium range. However, unlike its assault rifle counterparts, it sports minimal recoil. It can spray effectively for a good distance - around 95 studs or so. Up close, it also packs a punch with a 3SK. * While it does indeed act like its brother (the AK-12), the AKU-12 has less power than mainstream assault rifles. It has some minor problems that can be mitigated with attachments - the flash, for example. * The AKU-12 should be used as a control weapon - not necessarily killing an entire group of enemies with an LMG, but keeping the vital chokepoints and entrances clear of bullet fodder. Groza-1 (WIP) * The Groza-1 is designed for a unique range bracket, somewhere between an Assault Rifle and a DMR. It's a 5SK at range without headshots, and has very low recoil. Hipfire can fend off close range predators, but it's not that reliable. * Taking advantage of its low recoil, the main way to use the Groza-1 is automatic at range. It has a high rate of fire, and thus is able to quickly pick off targets. * The strategy here is to remove enemy targets from key locations and sniper nests, like the water tower in Desert Storm or the rooftops in Mall. It also serves to thin the numbers of approaching enemies, harrying them with a deadly spray of bullets at a safe distance. Surprisingly, Armor Piercing rounds help here, as it increases penetration (which helps with snipers/marksmen in partial cover) and the torso damage multiplier, while sacrificing close range damage. AK-12C (WIP) * This AK-12 variant seems to be nothing more than another name at first glance, sporting all of the hallmarks of a generic assault rifle. It stands out among the Carbines as a hard-hitting rifle, a title shared with only the SR-3M. * The playstyle(s) is very similar to the M4A1, but with more damage and recoil. Likewise, the game plan doesn't change that much - you can shape it to be a defensive, offensive, or tactical weapon. It all boils down to what you enjoy playing as. Honey Badger (WIP) * An integrally-suppressed close-medium range weapon; the Honey Badger is designed to be quieter than other Carbines. It's designed for stealth - get behind the enemies, then strike. It allows you to remain behind the lines for quite some time without being discovered (if you're careful), making it a good choice for complex, cluttered maps like Metro and Luck. * The decent magazine size (30 + 1) allows you to easily mow down nearby enemies without having to reload too often(which isnt that bad for the Badger), especially combined with the Honey Badger's decent RoF and unusually good reload time at 1.7s and 2.2s (tactical and empty reload, respectively). SR-3M (WIP) * A high recoil, high-damage powerhouse of a Carbine. Works well for medium-close range engagements. * The SR-3M is similar to the AS VAL, being able to equip the Extended Magazine, among others (albeit without the integral suppression). If you are accustomed to the AS VAL, then this weapon will give you a more Carbine-esque version of it. That also includes strategies - the main tactic is to flank the enemy, catching them off guard and killing them quickly. However, it also performs admirably in head-on confrontations, with high stopping power in many combat situations. Groza-4 (WIP) * Quite the change from the Groza-1. While the recoil is still very nice, this weapon is focused towards CQC, sporting very quick TTKs and a 2SK headshot. Even more similar to the AS VAL than the SR-3M, it's integrally suppressed. * Try to stay as close to the threshold of its maximum damage range as possible - 40 studs. This ensures quick, fast kills and makes things less complicated. * The plan is similar to what you'd expect of a PDW - close range assault. Inch up on the objective, and depose of threats quickly. Be careful to conserve ammo - the reload is decent, sure, but the magazine is only 20+1 rounds. 1858 Carbine * Weird for a carbine, this 1858 New Army revolver spinoff should be used at mid range. It functions more like a DMR, except with much slower RoF. Close range is a no-no with a weapon like this, and long range is too inaccurate due to the slower muzzle velocity. It also sports quick movement. * Headshots are imperative. At all ranges, it's a 1SK. If you can quickly get an enemy's head in your sights, then all the better. It's possible to headshot an entire group of enemies if you're fast and accurate enough. * Reposition often. The 1858 Carbine is extremely light, and encourages you to switch positions after killing enemies. AK105 (WIP) * Another of the out-of-place Carbine AK family, the AK105 brings the most assault-based gameplay to the table. Like the other AKs, it sports high recoil and damage. Unlike the other AKs, it is best suited for exclusive close-range combat. Like the L22, it should be used in confined areas up close, in places such the hallways of Metro. * The high recoil should be considered with attachments. And though it would make people lean towards the Muzzle Brake, the Compensator is actually the better muzzle device, as vertical recoil is easier to control than horizontal recoil. Category:WeaponryCategory:CarbinesCategory:StrategyCategory:Under Construction articles